my favorite Fall Winter 2024 looks - Fashion Week Paris & Milan

I am neither a fashion critic nor do I claim authority about my opinion on what is fashionable. However, this season I enjoyed fashion week more than ever. Therefore, I thought it would be fun to collect my favorite looks of this season and also share them with you.


To me, this season was all about the intellectual professional with a street smart attitude.
At large, we saw the return of ties and an all time low of prints. Many outfits involved contrast collars and jackets were heavily related to a classic workwear jacket. Additionally, I saw the importance of flow within the garments, accentuating a feeling of comfort and effortlessness – this loose aesthetic however was never about dressing down, it was about enabling and elevating the everyday. Finally colour coordination of muted tones was influencing the runways. Some of these combinations really led me to rethink my personal style. However, you will also see a lot of black in my selection, just because I like that – but I guess, Valentino does to…


This selection is based on my personal taste, plus, I haven’t looked at all shows. It is biased towards the shows from Paris and Milano in the last 2-3 weeks. Nevertheless, have fun – I had while picking the looks 🙂


They don’t follow a ranking or hierarchy. I have ordered them alphabetically by brand name.

Acne Studios

Printed? Painted? Oiled? - Anyway great double denim look by Acne

Ann Demeulemeester

All about attitude and flow in this look. This guy is the leadsinger of a 2000’s rockband that is on the verge of churning out some mean tape in which he works through his first relationships. Good Charlotte Type. I dig it.

Balenciaga

Love this futuristic take on a classic Cristobal dress
In this one I particularly love the colour combination of the pants and the layering of shirt and tracksuit

Bottega Veneta

Colour coordination of this look is absolutely insane – did you peep the blue shirt under the brown turtleneck under the brown wool sweater? Also, I believe these pants are leather. Crazy how Blazy elevates the ordinary every collection.
If you have been on Instagram during the last weeks you saw this look. Nevertheless, I also had to include it here. The Bottega Take on a workwear jacket. Leather collar – of course. Hardcore geometry. Beautiful fabric. Fun headwear – more of that.

Casablanca

American Psycho Cool at Casablanca. Love the stiff collar and this tanktop-apron-gilet-hotpot is intriguing for some reason.

Chloé

I love the cool chic in this look. Also, another take on the contrast collar with a flowy shirt peeping out the sleeves. The denim carries this look to me, both wash and cut are immaculate.
Bohemiam, effortless, woman with a bit of sex. Feeling innocent yet empowered. I do like this flowy, soft garment with a bit of edge of Chemela Kamali’s debut collection

Comme des Garcons

The barbwire print on this highly constructed dress with its broad shoulders make it a standout look to me
I don’t wear bow ties I am a bow tie. Re-appropriation of the suit done in a major way yet again by CDG.

Coperni

I’m obsessed with Coperni’s execution of its highly technical identity. Just for the aerogel bag this look is included in my favourites. Additionally, the whole look’s denotation is a James Bond enemy that wants to conquer space – I’m here for it

Dries van Noten

I mean look at the colours in this look. This is just unbelievably beautiful. (Inverted(?)) collar of the shirt is fun and texture of sweater and pants are fuzzy but somewhat still elevated. How did you do it Dries? “I don’t know”… he said in a recent interview.
Again the texture of the jacket is beautiful. I also love the pants which are nostalgic by pattern and modern by cut. To me this really embodies my initial observation of the intellectual professional with a street smart attitude.

Ferragamo

Davis really loves red. The colour matching is well executed here and the bag gives the appropriate contrast. Nice belt too on that jacket! Let me try that when it hits the stores.
Contrast collar on a green jacket – one of the key colours this season. Also boots on shorts – always down for that, even if the shorts are a bit too shorty for my personal style.

Gucci

I chose this look simply because it made me rethink how I wear some of my half-zips. The big collar draped over the should is just too cool. Also love the cut of the pants.

Heliot Emil

Included this look for the high-end Kalenji take by Heliot Emil here – if you know, you know. Also love the 3D printed boot and the cape.

Hermès

The Hermès show was a Gesamtkunstwerk, nevertheless this was my favourite look. Contrast collar and the way she holds the Kelly make this one stand out to me.

Hodakova

The basket skirt, the overlong tie, the pocket on the shirt, the hair styling, the expression – Hodakova is tired of the office, at least they are having fun with it.
I find this look so much fun. The striped shirt but then the long-dress with an absolutely crazy pattern. Somewhere between office to absolutely out of office – just distilling the times through fashion, great!

Institut Francais de la Mode - Graduate Collection

Double-Denim-Killer-Core, Robbie’s Vogue Runway Debut – had to be in it
Highly rate the denim. Even better to me are the details on the jacket which puts a great twist on a uniform. Fun take on how to wear a tie too. Overall contemporary yet rooted in references to the past. I like this look a lot.

Jil Sander

I love the geometry of the collar and the flow of the whole garment being initiated from the sequins going down to the pants.
Again this to me is all about flow. The huge rib on the collar gives this sweater a beautiful structure.

Kiko Kostadinov

Probably one of the least exciting looks on Kiko’s Runway – Nevertheless I love the sharp cutouts and the flow that they create, especially around the arms.
Contrast collars as understood at Kiko Kostadinov – I also like the accentuation of the mid-section through garment construction and styling.

Loewe

BELT.
Superslouchy pants, supersquare top, super look, thank you Loewe. I see myself taking a walk home after a casual friday in this.

Marine Serre

Denotation: Man that just queued for 45 Minutes in front of a flower shop on Valentine’s Day. I’m here for the clear tailoring and I just love the all-over crest.

McQueen

The strictness of the broad shoulders and the bondage vibes of the leather rope in this jack-the-ripper-esque silhouette make it one of my favorite looks of Sean McGirr’s East End inspired debut
Inverting the trench and making it into a dress is a clever and fun take on both British as well as Alexander McQueen’s heritage

MiuMiu

Colour and volume on this look are just so beautiful. The brown boots give it the necessary nonchalance.
Only Miuccia Prada would be able to come up with this colour combination. The mules are fun too. The embellishments on this somewhat oldfashioned leather coat give it the required elevation. Any woman would look great in this outfit. Few transcend time as much as this one does.

Prada

Colour of the skirt opposing the shoes. Bow detail. Futuristic glasses. Prada is always contemporary. Prada is always timeless. Does not seem possible, but Prada makes it happen
The details of the dress around the mid-section and on the sleeves. The collar is so well tailored on the neck. Also a fun way to wear the bag – “you’re not taking that off me!!!1!!”
Subtle colour changes in this modern office take by Prada. The headwear situation was already coined as "swim-cap-core", for me this is, again, inspired by Kalenji Running caps - either way, I'm down. The double belt situation is fun. The python looking belt actually holds a pouch which is carried backwards. Overall a simple look loaded with some deeper cultural references. Thanks Miuccia and Raf - it was fun.

Rick Owens

Even though they are not a mainstay this FW I am a still a sucker for good occasional print and font design. I love the weaved in PORTERVILLE logo design on this huge poncho - in particular taking into account what it means to the Rick Owens universe.
Flow was immaculate in this black, wool, bodysuit – looks comfy yet elegant
The red with the light mint is absolutely stunning in this iteration of the bodysuit.

Saint Laurent

Power-Leather-Coat. In both Men’s and Women’s collections the leather work was very strong. The shining of the coat in this particular photo made me choose it. Not sure it is possible to construct a more authoritative black coat than this one.
This look is so sleek, no matter how big and dense the crowd becomes at your local high-end club, this guy is always able to find his space.

Schiaparelli

Again, Double Denim with a Schiaparelli-esque tie – I’m here for it. Don’t overlook the pleat in the trousers accentuated by different wash – unbelievable detail. The way the brand is venturing into ready-to-wear while maintaing its highly artistic approach is very well exectued. I hope it translates into a solid business and I just added a store visit into my calendar.

The Row

Just the texture and colour of this fabric look absolutely beautiful. Would love to see it in motion – somebody has got a video from The Row’s show?

Valentino

Beautiful shoulders that transform into a flower finished sleeve. Hardcore geometry lower end of this mini-dress too. Love it!
LEATHER HOODED JACKET TAILORED BY PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI – didn’t have to think once about this one.
The long bow detail is beautiful, again the keywords here are flow, effortlessness and elevation. With this I close my FW2024 favorites.

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